high-end 3d pruinter

Description

I am selling an upgraded Solidoodle 4 printer comparable to a Lutzbotz Taz 6. I purchased this machine a few years ago because I was starting a business to compress cosmetic powder and I wanted to make strong plastic dies that needed high temperatures. So i needed a high-end printer. This printer cost 00 new and with the upgrades...there was 00 invested with this machine. I have a sheet with all the modifications made. The cost of a Lutzbotz Taz 6 is around 00 and this machine can handle the high temperatures that the Taz 6 can handle. All that is needed to do that is to change the heads to steel instead of bronze and the machine will be ready. That is just a few dollar change to reach the high temperatures.
The previous owner was a Materials Engineer. He did the modifications to the machine. He is an expert on these machines. I will include below some of his notes to me in our many emails before I bought the machine. This way you can get an idea of the capability of this machine.
notes from Engineer builder (my seller):
As for the e3d hotend and cold end this was to improve reliability of extrusion so there are no skipped steps. For example most extruder motors only have 30-60 oz-in torque. This is not enough to extrude the filament into the hotend and I actually did an independent study on this through college. Through a bunch of formulas and tests I found that a 5:1 geared nema 17 offers sufficient speed while providing the much needed torque compared to constant extrusion issues with the previous design. The threaded rod on that motor ended up experiencing what is called z-wobble. This caused unwanted consistent lines in the prints. Changing this with a more powerful stepper motor, spring coupler, and 8mm precision lead screw eliminated this problem. The e3d upgrade and z axis screw are separate upgrades that fixed separate design issues.
Has a build volume of approximately 8in x 8in x 8in (200mm^3) Printer bed can go up to 100oC for ABS and 60oC for PLA. This printer cost 9.00 new and was made in USA. Will include original box and manual if interested. The printer footprint is 13.5 x 14 x 15" in a nice powder black finish.
Printer Upgrades:
Upgraded to an all metal direct-drive extruding system allowing consistent and reliable extrusion. (No annoying stepper motor skipping sounds).
Kysan 5.18:1 Nema 17 stepper motor,
E3D V6 hotend,
40mm cooling fan,
Mk8 gold edition cold end,
Steel mounting plate.
Upgrade Cost: 9
Z axis has an upgraded CNC 8mm pitch precision lead screw and brass nut.
Also upgraded the Z axis motor and spring coupler to get rid of Z-banding.
Upgrade Cost:
Replaced all X and Y axis bearings and rods for rigidity and improve performance.
Upgrade Cost:
Bought a more powerful power brick.
Upgrade Cost:
Over ,400+ invested in this printer.
Yes, I upgraded the machine to match the quality
of higher level machines. Only reason why I am selling it is
because I am looking to downsize my hobby as I do not have
much time anymore. Extras would be: extra brass nozzles, 1kg
pla, solid metal heat break (print higher temperatures than
current setup), an memory card with all upgrades and .step
files and stl files for the machine along with software,
extra fans, any original components I have, extra hotend
thermistor (temp sensor) and heating element, and standalone
spool holder. Another thing is if you don't want to
print via computer all of the connectors should be
compatible with ramps 1.4 which will allow you to add a
screen and sd card reader down the road. So, if you buy 5
steel nozzles and a ramps 1.4 kit on ebay you can have
exactly what you want for around more.
The hotend was a horrible design and I am happy I
found an alternative. I upgraded it to an e3d hotend capable
of high temperatures with a 40 watt cartridge heater. As
seen in the picture the whole extrusion mechanism
(yellow/black/sliver) is custom made and designed to solve
any and all problems with the extrusion mechanism. It does
not have any plastic pieces and is driven by a powerful 5:1
nema 17 planetary geared extruder. You may have heard of
"skipping steps" but I designed I to give very
accurate extrusion while having high enough torque to drive
any filament. It even works with flexible filaments.  That
part alone is worth about 0. Ever since I put it on there
I never have had a problem with the printer. In short, it
lets me print at high temperatures and print very reliably.
This is a re-designed solidoodle 4. The hot-end
goes up to 240 degrees C as it is installed (has ptfe tube for PLA
currently). I can include a few all metal throats which will
let it go up to 300 degrees C. The heat bed I have had it up to 100
degrees C. It can print material ranging from low pla material up
to 240  degrees C. Again, as the printer is at the moment  with bronze nozzles, I would
not recommend printing with polycarbonate or carbon fiber.
However, if you get a steel nozzle and replace the brass
nozzle it can print those materials.
For the right price I am also willing
in adding 5 brass nozzles, extra e3d throats, extra hotend
parts, 1kg pla, and extra spool holder.